The Story
The pretzel, everyone knows it not only for its exquisite taste and texture, but more importantly for its unique, twisted shape. Today pretzels are made and sold in countries around the world. But where did they come from and how did they get their shape?
The origin of the Pretzel and its shape is more myth and legend than actual fact. The History of Science and Technology by Bryan Bunch and Alexander Hellemans details probably the most famous story behind this uniquely shaped bread. According to their account, in 610 AD, "...an Italian monk invents pretzels as a reward to children who learn their prayers. He calls the strips of dough, folded to resemble arms crossing the chest, 'pretiola' ("little rewards")".1 Unfortunately, for as popular as this story may be, no evidence exists to support it.
Although this particular story may be just a legend, it is widely accepted that the bread's origin has its roots with early christians. The German name "brezel" is even derived from the Latin word bracchium meaning "arm" owing to the distinct resemblance of the pretzel shape with folded arms.1
Another popular theory for the pretzel shape's origin dates back to the Roman era and resembles Roman ring-bread, which is a small, circular-shaped bread.2

However the Pretzel got its shape, we know that it has been around for a very long time - at least as far back as the 12 century. In the
Hortus deliciarum, a document dating back to the 12 century AD, there is an illustration showing a banquet with Queen Esther and King Ahasuerus in which a pretzel, with its distinct shape can clearly be seen on the table.
Where it came from, we may never know. But one thing we do know, the Pretzel is here to stay. Particularly in Germanic countries, the pretzel has deep roots in their cultures and culinary history. The crest for the German Baker's Guild even displays a pretzel prominently on its shield.
Today, the Pretzel is used in many traditional celebrations as well. For Germans, it is a tradition to eat pretzels during the Good Friday dinner. Not only is the shape religious, but the bread consists of a simple recipe that does not contain eggs, lard, or dairy products which are forbidden during lent.2 Pretzels are also often associated with Easter. in some countries, pretzels were hidden for the children to find on Easter morning, and not eggs. Germans also associate the pretzel with good luck and good fortune. On New Years day, some exchange pretzels as a gift of luck for the coming year.1
The Bread
Although there are many varieties of pretzel, the Laugenbrezel from Bavaria is probably the most common and traditional pretzel. The Laugenbrezel was actually invented by a Bavaria baker completely by accident. As the story goes, on February 11, 1839, a baker at the Munich Royal Caf
é named Anton Nepomuk Pfanenbrenner was baking some sweet pretzels for his guests. His intention was to brush the pretzels with sugar water, but instead reached for the Natronlauge, a sodium hydroxide solution used to clean and disinfect the countertops. This would have been a serious Health Department violation and possibly a lawsuit today, but back then, the guests actually loved them!
2
And so, although sodium hydroxide is a main active ingredient in drain cleaner, it is now a main ingredient in pretzels. To this day, the Laugenbrezel is dipped in a food-safe sodium hydroxide solution before baking. This is what gives the Laugenbrezel the hard brown crust and the soft center that is as signature to the pretzel as the shape.
The Recipe
As mentioned above, the secret to a good Laugenbrezel is the sodium hydroxide solution. If you are going to dip your food in sodium hydroxide, however, it is important to get a solution that is designed for and safe for food. Although people have sometimes commented on using soap-maker's sodium hydroxide, I would not advise anything that is not labeled food safe. I did find a small bottle (5 oz) of food grade sodium hydroxide online for relatively cheap from a company called Essential Depot (www.essentialdepot.com/servlet/the-547/5oz.-Food-Grade-Sodium/Detail) that you might want to check out. For my recipe, however, I found a recommendation to bake common baking soda in the oven as a way to imitate a sodium hydroxide solution. Baking soda is similar to sodium hydroxide, but not as powerful. When it is baked, however, the alkaline becomes more concentrated and it can work as a substitute for recipes like this. The substitute does not create a nice shiny brown crust like sodium hydroxide will (see my picture above), the crust is still crunchy and the inside is delightful.
To create the baking soda substitute, cover a cookie sheet with a layer of tin foil. Sprinkle baking soda on the tin foil and bake in the oven at 300 degrees F. for one hour. It is important to remember that when you take the baking soda out of the oven it will have a higher alkaline concentration and can irritate the skin. You should always handle the powder with gloves after removing from the oven. Store in a dry and sealed container so as not to allow the powder to collect moisture from the air.
Ingredients:
3 1/2 Cups of all-purpose flour
1 1/2 tsp yeast
1 tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
1/4 Cup butter
2/3 Cup warm water
1/2 Cup warm milk
Dissolve the sugar in the warm water and add the yeast to begin forming a yeast culture. While this is forming, add the other ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Add in the yeast culture and mix together to create a consistent dough. Knead the dough on a lightly floured surface until you can poke the dough with your finger and the dough springs back. Let the dough rise for one hour or until double in size. See
my post on French Baguettes for tips on using your oven to help your dough rise if you can't find a warm place in your house (like when you bake bread at 10:00 at night like me).
After the dough has risen to twice its size, break the dough down into little balls. I found that the dough makes a dozen 3 gram balls, but some people like larger 4 gram pretzels and the 4 gram balls are great for rolls too. I felt that 3 grams was a bit small for rolls. For our example here, though, I needed quantity over quality, so we went with 3 gram balls.
Once all of your dough is broken down into balls, take each ball one by one and form pretzels (unless you want rolls, in which case, leave them as balls). To form a pretzel, I got my hands lightly wet and wet the countertop slightly by wiping my damp hand across it. This made the dough easier to roll. If the countertop and your hands are dry, the dough just tended to slide around and smash instead of roll. The idea when rolling is to get the edges thin while keeping the middle kind-of plump instead of being evenly rolled. Once you have rolled the ball out thin, twist the ends and fold them back on the body to form a pretzel knot. If you are struggling with this concept, there are several videos out there than demonstrate this.
As you finish forming your pretzels, carefully place them in a ziplock bag and, when all of your pretzels are formed and bagged, put them in the freezer for one hour. Lightly freezing the pretzels hardens them so that they are easier to work with during the sodium hydroxide dipping process.
After freezing your pretzels, you are ready for dipping and baking. During the dipping process, it is always a good idea to work with gloves and protective glasses. The sodium hydroxide solution or substitute solution can irritate if they come in contact with the eyes or skin. Also, be sure to clean up any splatters as they happen to avoid damage to surfaces (Pleasant warnings considering you're going to be eating this stuff in a few minutes, aren't they). Please be sure to read and adhere to all safety warnings when using the sodium hydroxide. Also, I have heard debates about what to put the solution in. I use a ceramic bowl for the solution, but I have heard of others using metal.
My solution was a 4% mix which consisted of 2 teaspoons of powder to 2 Cups of water.
Carefully stir the solution until the cloudy water becomes clear. This is how you know when the powder is fully dissolved. Now carefully dip each pretzel in the solution for 30 seconds. You may have to push them under the water as I found some pretzels (and particularly the rolls) wanted to float. After dipping, place the pretzels on a cookie sheet covered with a layer of parchment paper and immediately sprinkle with coarse salt or other desired topping.
After dipping and salting, place the pretzels in the over at 450 degrees F. for about 15 minutes or until they are nice and brown on top.
Once finished, remove from the oven and allow to cool. I got anxious on my first batch and wanted to try one fresh from the oven. I found that the pretzels stuck to the paper and tore in half when I tried to remove it. Once they cooled, though, they were easier to remove from the paper.
The Result
As I said earlier, using the baking soda substitute did not produce the dark brown crust I was going for, but the dough is top notch and the texture and flavor are amazing. It may seem like a lot of work at first, but it was lots of fun and well worth doing again. I'd say the pretzels were my favorite recipe so far and one I intend to continue to develop.
1 - www.bavarianpretzelfactory.com/history.html
2 - www.germanfoodguide.com/pretzel.cfm